Kingpin Shears


Turquoise satin wiggle dress
May 2, 2010, 15:05
Filed under: Me, Vintage


I have had my eye on this dress for such a long time. The measurements are right (well the hip might be a tad tight — then again, you’d wear a girdle with this dress anyway), but the price is a bit high. Not high for a vintage dress, granted, but high for me to just buy it instead of sewing myself something similar. I must admit, finding something even remotely in my size (especially in such a rad colour) makes me want to buy it, just because. Still, sewing it myself would guarantee it would fit. But but but! Isn’t it lovely?

The mannequin certainly doesn’t fill her up quite adequately but I think I wouldn’t share that problem.

Been on a turquoise spree lately. I figure I better make the most of the fact that it’s actually en vogue right now, my preferred colours and the trends don’t seem to meet all that often. My mother took me to a colour analysis for my sweet sixteen present (16 years ago in fact) and I still have the colour wheel. It’s chock full of hot pinks, turquoise and jade green. I’ve grown tired of fighting the jewel tones so heck, let’s have ‘em.



Bust Eating and Cherry dresses
January 6, 2010, 15:23
Filed under: Details, Finished projects, Patterns, Sewing

I thought I might actually post some pictures of two finished projects for a change.

The lilac Bust Eating dress is remodelled from Vogue 2960. I guess this projct taught me that gathers at the bust are not for me (also, notice what I said about the waist seam and short waistedness…?) Here’s a detail of the bodice. The fabric is really nice and soft embroidered linen, but ironing it after washing is a pain in the butt (of course, it should be dry cleaned but come on, who are we kidding here). The original pattern calls for a dirndl skirt but that is a catastrophical look for me. So, the Bust Eating dress features a full circle skirt. Extra loveliness to this dress is brought by bound buttonholes and buttons covered with the dress fabric.

The Cherry Dress is the dress I’ve received the most compliments of, ever. It’s another creation with a dirndl skirt replaced by a circle skirt. And with a waist seam. It doesn’t make me look fat, but it does make me look kind of stumpy.
The original pattern is Butterick 5209 and the fabric used is Cherry Toss On Black from Favorite Fabrics.

I suppose a full cicle skirt might not be the best look for me, but it is a classic one and I like classic looks. So sue me. Both dresses are worn here with a crinoline. I doubt I’ll ever want to write an actual post about that one — it’s basically just loads of gathered bedsheet in three tiers, the topmost being fitted not to exaggerate my hippiness. More functional than pretty.

So see, I do finish projects, occasionally…



Little Black Boatneck
January 6, 2010, 14:48
Filed under: Details, Patterns, Sewing

The Vogue 8615 won’t leave me be. V8615 The classic “boatneck, three quarter sleeves” Audrey Hepburn look just hits me where it hurts. On the other hand, I dislike the center front seam (could probably be easily omitted) and the seam at the waist. I’m not exactly short waisted, but I do have a low bust (not drooping, just low) so a waist seam makes me look short waisted. In addition to this, the ever so trusty reviewers at Patternreview.com have given this pattern poor reviews.

B4827So, to make use of a pre-owned pattern (that is also the base of my unfinished Particle Collision Dress), I’ll probably sate this craving by sewing a similar dress from Butterick 4827 that has more flattering princess seams and a boat neck. It can easily be redrafted in the back to give that V-shape neckline there. I somehow already managed to order black wool crepe from McCulloch & Wallis *cough*. I wonder how that happened…



I fail where it counts
January 3, 2010, 16:54
Filed under: Details, Patterns

Well damn it.

Due to unexpected monetary gain I finally decided to order a couple of out of print patterns from Vogue — no need to wait for a sale because out of prints are never on sale. I settled on this V7799 lovely top which is going to be my first attempt at sewing knits (they tell me it’s easy but I’ll believe it when I see it) alongside with a coat pattern with a nice collar.

But nobody told me they have got absolutely darling designs in the Very Easy category! I’ve been under the impression it’s full of unshapely sacks but I’ve been oh so wrong. V8615 V8615 comes with separate pieces for cup sizes A-D, for instance (it really isn’t a difficult pattern to make yourself, but I’m a lazy bastard). If you click on the picture you’ll see the dress in houndstooth pattern fabric that I really can’t stand myself but you get to see the back of the neckline. Lurve it. (Okay, I’ll admit the b/w version looks nice as hell but it’s just not for me.)

And V8532 has got this lovely bodice with a wide open neckline. With some modifications to the skirt (I’ll tell you all about my roomy hips some other time) it would be lovely indeed. I used to loathe v-necks (and I still do, in sweaters) but they’re starting to grow on me. V8532

Why haven’t I paid attention to Very Easy Vogue? Pete knows I spend enough time browsing through all sorts of crap when I’m bored and in a linky clicky mood.

Ah well, maybe some other time. It’s not as if I’m short on patterns. I haven’t counted them recently, but they fill a sizeable plastic bag now. I’ll need to catalogue them soon…



The shawl collar
January 1, 2010, 17:53
Filed under: Details, Sewing, Unborn babies

One of the projects competing of the “to be tackled at next” place on my sewing list is a new winter coat. I already have the fabric, but I’m still in the process of planning the details.

Then I ran across this absolutely dreamy coat on Lucitebox and it’s almost exactly the design I was aiming at. Look at the collar on it, folks! I was planning to make the collar from contrasting fabric (the coat is navy, the collar was supposed to be cream). I still think I should. Navy can be such a dull colour and cream would freshen it up somewhat. It’s fortunate this coat has already been sold be cause otherwise I would have been forced to buy it, customs and postge and wool-already-purchased be damned. It’s just so dreamy and exactly my size, too. Click on the picture to see the other views of this darling.



Violet wool jumper
December 14, 2009, 22:08
Filed under: Sewing

I’ve started sewing the view C of the fab Simplicity 3673 (the one with a wider hem). I’ve redrafted the bodice, removing the gathers under the bust and adding two bust darts per side, one in the side seam and the other right under the bust point. The gathered version makes even the model look droopy busted.

So in addition to making my usual full bust adjustment I also needed to remove excess fabric from under the bust. Gah. According to the bodice muslin I did okay.

I heeded the advice of my lovely commenter Jaana-Mari and started with the lining. A fab idea — I’m still stoked to continue with the fashion fabric (lovely drapey violet wool). HOWEVER, I managed to sew the waist tucks on the wrong side of the lining in one of the back skirt pieces.

Meh.



The 30s sari dress finished
November 27, 2009, 18:11
Filed under: Finished projects, Sewing

Well, I finished sewing at eight this morning. The dress turned out great, though — with the sheer silk, it definitely needed a slip and I made one out of horrid peach cupro. It’s more functional than pretty, but works out great with the dress.

Turns out this project taught me a lot about sewing slinkies. Who knows, I might tackle knits next. Although the probability isn’t very high…

Now, to reward myself with DRAGON AGE.



The new life of an old sari
November 24, 2009, 20:30
Filed under: Sewing

I’ve promised to sew a dress for a friend’s company christmas party that has a 30′s theme. We bought a vintage silk sari on eBay for the project in golden orange and pink. I’ve now cut the fabric and should start sewing. Slinky silky fabric. I shiver in my little boots. See the front tucks in the bodice? There’s no good way to mark them in the fabric (except perhaps tailor’s tacks, but come on, people, I’m not that advanced yet — besides, the fabric would still be slinky and unmanageable).

I’ll let you know how it goes.



Unfinished business
November 9, 2009, 22:24
Filed under: Me, Sewing, Unborn babies

Well, I guess I got to start somewhere to get this show on the road.

These are the sewing projects that I have already started but have not finished yet.

  • The Red Summerdress, Vogue 2267. Vogue 2267
    Very, very red cotton gabardine. I love the colour and the pattern and intend to use the pattern for at least one woolly jumper dress. One version of this dress — purple taffeta with black chiffon roses — was worn by a friend at a wedding this autumn (I hated the fabric in that one so I gave it to her). What is it with this dress? Why can’t I finish one despite my obvious love for the pattern and the utter ease of making one? In the case of the red variant, I’m not sure about the gabardine. It’s a tad stiff for a dress like that. Maybe I should wear it as a jumper dress, too. Also it still needs a lining. Brr, linings. Started in summer 2007.
  • The Blueberry Particle Dress, Butterick 4827 without sleeves. Blueberry coloured fine linen. I love the neckline, but without the sleeves it seems to gape. It’s probably too big around the shoulders.  I should look into it. The dress has an invisible zipper in the back and I’ve started embroidering particle collision tracks to the bodice. It will be my particle physics dress. Started in summer 2007.
  • The Wood Bead Dress, Vogue 1089. Cream linen. Never got to finish it before my trip to NYC this August and upon returning it was already too cold for this dress. Started in summer 2009.
  • The Dark Matter Pants, Simplicity 3322A. Basic pants made out of the heaviest substance known to man — a wool suiting fabric I bought on eBay. These pants weight a ton and still need to be lined. Started in Autumn 2009.
  • The Red Vixen Dress, Vogue 1121. Made out of a thin, woollish mystery fabric. The fitting of this dress took forever (the pattern has a sort of a pouch around the lower abdomen where I don’t have any protrusions) and I ended up overfitting it around the hips — it bunches up like nobody’s business when I sit down (very carefully). The colour is extremely flattering and I was so proud of myself even considering wearing a snug sheath dress with these thighs. This was/is a dress to wear in two weeks. We’ll see what I decide to do about it. There is precious little to take out of the seam allowances. Started last week.
  • The Newspaper Boy Cap, Vogue 8440 D. I found a piece of gorgeously soft dark grey cashmere/wool in a discount bin and decided to make a hat out of it. The hat is ready… but still needs to be lined. Started in autumn 2009.

I think I can see a pattern there. I hate lining stuff. I’m planning to rely more on slips and other undergarments anyway to make the cleaning easier. It’s just… the slickiness of those fabrics! The dullness! The fact that you basically need to make the same garment twice… I’m considering preparing the lining first, before starting on the actual garment itself. Might make the lining part more bearable.



In the beginning there was an empty page
November 8, 2009, 18:52
Filed under: General, Me, Sewing

Hi.

I decided to start a blog where I could share my thoughts on sewing — mostly vintage, but also modern — and any thoughts stemming from the subject without overtly burdening any innocent bystanders.

I’ve been sewing for real for maybe two years now. I first was attracted to being able to sew simple yet stylish clothes I can’t find in stores (nothing I could afford, anyway) but later on realized that being able to sew your own pants can be awesome if you don’t happen to be shaped like a 12-year old boy. I think you know what I mean.

I tend to drift between projects. Sometimes I finish what I’ve started; other times not. I may become disillusioned once I come across a bothersome fitting issue I hadn’t foreseen and the semi-finished garment gets buried somewhere until I’ve gathered my wits again. Perhaps this blog will help with finishing those mutants.

I welcome any and all comments, so let’s talk!




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